Cortina d’Ampezzo, Queen of the Dolomites

BEST OF | Issue 04 | AUTUMN/WINTER 2025/26 | Text: Barbara Schneeberger

You can compare her to a pearl, for Cortina d’Ampezzo is wreathed like a precious necklace by the striking cliffs and rock formations of the 3000-metre peaks of the Dolomites, which seem to be looking after, protecting her. Her history is deeply moving, nature’s backdrop resembles a stage set. Quite conscious of her attractiveness, movie directors, writers, organizers and artists have come to orchestrate their stories in this renowned spot, reaping its untold advantages. Yet in spite of all the worldly temptations, the Queen of the Dolomites remains firmly grounded, inseparably linked to earth, and is proud of its multi-faceted and highly talented residents.

Cortina d’Ampezzo has occupied an unshakeable pedestal in the minds of many people as a wintertime sports mecca ever since 1956, when the tiny Italian city was chosen as noble venue for the Olympic Winter Games and presented itself to the world. And today, seventy years later, from 6^th to 22^nd February 2026, the Olympic torch will once again be set aflame in Northern Italy. Cortina d’Ampezzo will without doubt rise once again to fulfill her role as such a longstanding reputation demands, as an outstanding hostess to the world, when alpine skiing women, bobsled, skeleton, toboggan and curling let loose their competitions here. But insiders, nature lovers, activists of all genres as well as historians know quite well that the town nestled at 1211 metres altitude possesses uncountable charms and attractions above and beyond the uproar and glory-seeking fanfare of Winter Olympics.

At a 64% gradient, the Women’s Ski World Cup racers reach speeds of over 130 km/hr on the challenging “Tofana Schuss” section of the Olimpia delle Tofane course.

The cable car from Cortina d’Ampezzo ascends to the Cima Tofana at 3244 metres in three stages, overcoming a total elevation gain of 2200 metres.

Motifs like a dream come true

Among the most prominent reasons is the absolutely peerless gigantic natural setting of the most striking mountain massif of the Dolomites, the Tofane, along with the rough-hewn rock formations of Cinque Torri which are beloved goals of mountaineers and photographers alike. Their lenses seem to never grow tired in their search for unusual, or impressive, or gaspingly breathtaking motifs. Everywhere you look, scenes ranging from the resplendent to the sublime unfold to the eye: the magnificent panorama of the mountain pass named Passo di Giau, the picturesque Fanes Waterfalls, the seductive lakes, the stunning churches, the painted frescoes at the “Ciàsa de I Pùpe” in the lovely inner city dotted with cafés, restaurants and boutiques…the list could be extended to fill pages of attractions.

An eventful history

Yet it is those with a yearning to know how things came about historically who are particularly rewarded in Cortina d‘Ampezzo, for the pleasures are thereby deepened. Its history goes back a long way, to when megalodons were the masters of the tropical seas, to a time before the Dolomites had even formed. In the Paleontological Museum Rinaldo Zardini there is a rich collection of valuable Triassic fossils. Millions of years later this town was established through its trade in wood as well as by providing an important route traversing the Alps. When in 1511 Cortina d‘Ampezzo was incorporated into the Austro-Hungarian Empire where it was destined to remain for more than 400 years, a fascinating cultural agglomeration evolved here out of Ladin (in the Rhaeto-Romanche group), Tirolean and Italian traditions. These roots are visible in the city even today, evident in its customs, religion, language, cuisine and background teachings. That is something most enjoyably discovered on a stroll through town, in the churches, at El Cianpanìn (Cortina’s bell tower), at the numerous museums, art galleries and city events. The historic finale of the monarchy can be experienced palpably on a wide variety of hikes, such as around Cinque Torri. The redoubts and embattled nests in the murderous defensive fronts of World War I from 1915 to 1917 remain examples without parallel of that cataclysm, when Austrians and Italians faced off against each other all around Col di Lana, the Tofane and the Lagazuoi, rising majestically above the Falzarego Pass. Special exhibitions and museums devoted to these events round out the historical records of the time and still move human memory.

A strategically important location during World War I, the Falzarego Pass is now a favourite among cyclists and motorcyclists, with demanding climbs, hairpin bends, and breathtaking views.

A sought-after star

And then, Cortina d‘Ampezzo rose like a phoenix out of the ashes: in the 1920s European aristocrats made skiing as a sport popular, spreading over Monte Faloria and the Tofane, while daredevil English mountain climbers were suddenly idealized role models. In the 1930s, writers followed in their footsteps, such as Hemingway who came here again and again in order to do research for his book “A Farewell to Arms.” Equally unforgettable, of course, were the movies that were shot here, such as “The Pink Panther” (1963), the James Bond film “For Your Eyes Only” (1981) or “Cliffhanger” with Sylvester Stallone (1993). Today Cortina still serves up spellbinding settings for films and series as their shooting location, for example, the Netflix film “My Name is Vendetta”, the series “Lift” or the “Cinepanettone Cortina Express” (2024). For all these reasons, it is no wonder that people from all over the world have made pilgrimages to Cortina d’Ampezzo in order to experience for themselves these legendary sites and locations: the city centre, the train station, the Olympic Ice-Skating Stadium, the Tofane cablecar and lots more besides.

The turquoise-blue natural gem Lago di Sorapis, featuring the striking rock formation known as the “Dito di Dio” (Finger of God), is Tripadvisor’s most popular excursion destination in Cortina d’Ampezzo for 2025.

Pleasures without end

Yet without any doubt, it is sports which are most closely connected with Cortina d’Ampezzo. In wintertime, skiers and snowboarders float atop the snow and zip down 120 superbly prepared ski runs, while cross-country fans power out their limits on about 70 km of skiing trails. Summer is played out under the aegis of golfers, hikers, climbers and mountainbikers, who spend both challenging and pleasurable days here. And speaking of pleasure: that peculiarly Italian feeling for good living, bursting with great food and ‘la dolce vita’ is just as integral a part of Cortina d’Ampezzo as are the interiors of the places to enjoy them in, all of its venues bearing the stamp of local handcraftsmanship. Scores of restaurants draw together these worlds to perfection with their opulent offerings of fish and sea food, hearty and robust traditional dishes as well as the classical regional specialties, such as Casunziei – moon-shaped ravioli stuffed with red beets, melted butter and poppy seeds. Accompanying this gem are regional wines, homemade craft beer and other local specialties, invariably in a cosy traditional ambience. An additional facet helping visitors to immerse into the incomparable feeling-for-life in Cortina is on offer in more than 300 local shops in the vibrant and thriving city centre. A veritable cornucopia of age-old handicrafts, prestigious fashion labels, antiques and design trends makes eyes open wide and jaws drop. Our insider recommendation: the Shopping Centre Cooperativa has more than 4000 m² of shops which proffer more than 100,000 different products for your delectation.

Hotel-Tips in Cortina d’Ampezzo

Hotel Tofana Cortina***** (re-opened after renovation): www.hoteltofana-cortina.it
Faloria*****: www.faloriasparesort.com
Hotel de LEN: www.hoteldelen.it
Eight Cortina: www.cortina.eighthotels.it
Càmina Suite & Spa****: www.caminacortina.it
Lajadira Hotel & Spa****: www.hotellajadira.it
Grand Hotel Savoia*****: www.grandhotelsavoiacortina.it

Restaurant-Tips in Cortina d’Ampezzo

Alajmo Cortina
Ristorante Tivoli (1 Michelin-Star)
SanBrite (1 Michelin-Star)
Baita Fraina
Baita Piè Tofana